5w-12v Boat Lift Solar Charging Kit (w/36-inch arm)
Our entry level, 5w-12v Boat Lift Solar Charging Kit provides light-duty charging for 12v DC boat lift & PWC systems that use a single 12v battery. Lake Lite's Boat Lift Solar Charging Kits have high quality solar panels that will keep your boat lift battery in top condition so the DC lift motor has the power to raise and lower your boat or Jet Ski.
The 5w-12v Boat Lift Solar Charging Kit is constructed to last using only the best materials to withstand harsh marine environments and UV radiation. The easily-adjustable anodized aluminum mounting arm resists corrosion and has the strength to withstand high winds and storms. Furthermore, Lake Lite's manufactures the highest quality solar panels available and are rated for 20+years life! With an emphasis on CELL quality, reliability, and longevity, Lake Lite's 5w-12v Boat Lift Solar Charging Kit meets the highest customer standards. Our panels feature monocrystalline cells, a superior solar technology when it comes to efficiency. Superb low lighting performance, these single-crystal, silicon cell panels have a long lifespan, high durability, high reliability. These modules are sealed with low iron tempered glass and anodized aluminum alloy frames.
Lift Capacity Up To 3,000 lbs
If you require several lifts per day and or have a heavier boat please consider our larger 10, 15, or 20 watt panels. The 5w-12v Boat Lift Solar Charging Kit is perfect for the light weekend user with a light boat & boat lift or PWC lift.
Key Features & Benefits
High-Efficiency Mono-Crystalline Solar Cells
Anodized Aluminum Frame
Mounts To Any Boat Lift
20+ Years Lifetime Panel Rating
12v DC Boat Lifts and Boats
Replaceable Wiring & Quick Connect System
Adjustable Angle for Maximum Solar Charge
Optional Solar Charge Regulator
J-Arm Easily Handles Storms & High Winds
- Screws that are for mounting the plate to the panel should be bolts, not phillips head screws. If they ever come loose, there's a good chance that you wouldn't be able to tighten them...
- Screws that are for mounting the plate to the panel should be bolts, not phillips head screws. If they ever come loose, there's a good chance that you wouldn't be able to tighten them after the outer nuts are on. Wouldn't hurt to use nylon captivated nuts either. I replaced all of my hardware.
- The hole in the plate for the wire routing should be off-set since the arm is directly above the hole and the wires have to be looped to allow for insertion into the arm.